Want to learn how to sew an easy-peasy tote bag? There are gobs of other tutorials out there; I’m just adding my voice to the chorus. Be warned: my sewing is incredibly simple. I’m not a stickler for making things perfect so much as making them they way you like them and finding perfection in the process.

First, find two fabrics you like. Wash, dry and iron these. Some other helpful supplies include a tin of pins, scissors, a rotary cutter and ruler and an iron. You’ll also need some wide ribbon for the handle.

Cut your fabric exterior and lining in two equal rectangles. Mine are 10 inches wide by 18 inches tall, doubled. In other words, my fabric is folded along the bottom.

Also, I created two pocket rectangles, each 5 inches wide by 8 inches tall. Cut these pieces out and iron them.

I use my rotary cutter to even out my fabrics so they are the same size.

Take both of your pocket pieces to your ironing board and turn under the top edge 1/4 an inch. Then turn it under again 1/4 an inch so your raw edge is not exposed. Iron this folded edge flat and then sew a running stitch (basic stitch) down the edge. Backstitch at each end to lock your stitches.

Once this is completed, come back to the ironing board and turn under the other three sides once. They don’t need to be double folded. Once you have these turned under, pin your first pocket to the center of your exterior piece (or where ever you’d like the pocket to be on the bag).

Repeat this with the pinning of the second pocket on the lining piece. Be sure to pin this pocket on just one side of the exterior and lining pieces. Stitch the remaining three sides down on the pocket, leaving the pre-stitched top edge completed. Voila — your pockets are done.

Now take your ribbon and make two handles. I like my handles to be at least 18 inches long so I can get the bag over my shoulder. That said, you can play with the length to fit your needs. Place the first piece of ribbon with both raw ends matched up with the exterior top raw edge. Place these ribbon ends at least 8 inches apart. Pin the ribbon down.

Repeat on the other edge of the bag, making sure to also space them 8 inches apart. Fold the bag in half to see how the ribbon handles match up and adjust to make sure they are evenly spaced on both sides of the bag. Then sew these down, one at a time. I like to sew and backtack several times across the ribbon to make sure the permanency of the handle.

Now your handle is complete.

Voila! Now fold your exterior fabric together – right sides together. You should have two raw edges along each side and one raw edge along the top. Pin down each side and follow by sewing a ½ inch seam down each side. You can choose to sew across the bottom too – but for this simple tote I prefer to use the natural bottom created by the fabric’s fold.

Repeat this process by folding the lining right sides together and sewing both raw sides together. If you want to trim the bottom corners, you can. Also, if you have sloppy edges – you can trim these too. Just be careful not to catch your sewing in your scissors or you will have to sew the seam again.

Now turn the exterior fabric right side out. Carefully place the exterior bag inside the lining bag. The lining will be inside out – the right sides of the fabrics will be together when you place the exterior inside the lining. Tuck the ribbon handles between the lining and the exterior. This is an important step.

Starting at one side, match the seams and pin around the top raw edge of the lining and exterior bag top, leaving a 7 inch hole in the pining between two of the ribbon handles on one side. Once you have the lining and exterior pinned together, carefully sew a ½ inch to 1 inch seam around the bag, being mindful not to sew all the 7 inch hole. Backtack at each end.

Now, carefully pull the exterior and lining through this 7 inch hole and iron flat. Then tuck the lining inside the exterior and iron flat, especially around the top edge where you will still have a 7 inch hole. Press and sew a top stitch around the top edge of the bag, closing the hole.

Voila – your reversible ribbon handle tote bag is complete! I’ve filled this one with travel goodies for one of my traveling companions this summer.

Other options to consider:
Use interfacing to make the bag sturdier
Use gussets at the bottom to make the bag stand up and not have a flat bottom
Use a grommet to create a key hole at the top of the bag

Perfect for the anti-plastic grocery bag movement, as a lunch tote, to keep in your trunk to manage the little things that seem to always be rolling around, to keep on the back of your bedroom door for junk you aren’t ready to sort through yet, etc.

Email me with questions or corrections. And let me know if you make one of these!

Last year I was browsing the Red Envelope catalog (love their personalized gifts and earrings) when I saw a tiny photo for a leather jewelry wrap. My necklaces are pretty much always tangled because of the petite leather earring box I keep them in at the bottom of my gym bag. (Go figure.) I liked the idea of a small pouch that would help keep everything organized, so I studied the photo, asked Meg for some advice and took this project on as my homemade girlfriend gift for 2007. I ended up making 25 of these and giving them with a piece of handmade jewelry made by a local retired couple.

{Three cheers for my pledge to buy locally and go handmade. Woot!}

They went over well and I tried not to let the backhanded, “Wow! This is so great. Your sewing is really improving,” sting after the tenth time it was said.
Anyway — a tutorial for you peeps interested in making your own fabulous jewelry wrap:

Supplies:
Cotton fabric
Canvas
Two zippers
Velcro
heavy-weight, iron-on interfacing
A button, needle, thread
Elastic

Directions:
Cut two rectangles measuring 11″ x 18″ from your front fabric and lining fabric. (I varied these.)

Cut one rectangle measuring 11″ x 18″ from your canvas. Set these aside.

Cut one necklace pocket measuring 11″ by 5″ from cotton fabric.

Cut two necklace pocket flap measuring 11″ by 3″ from cotton fabric.

Cut one ring holder measuring 11″ by 4″ from cotton fabric.

Cut one necklace pocket flap interface piece measuring 11″ by 3″.

Prep:
Take your two necklace pocket flaps and pin them right sides together. Now iron on the interfacing to one of these sides. Sew 1/4 inch seam around the edge leaving a 1″ hole to turn your work. Trim corners, turn right side out, press. Gently turn under remaining 1″ and complete with top-stitching around entire outside edge. Fold in half width wise and iron crease in center. Place 1″ piece of Velcro 1″ above the bottom edge. Sew around edge.
Put to the side. Your pocket flap is now completed.

Take your ring holder fabric and fold it in half length wise. Press crease. Now turn in 1/2 inch of the top and bottom edges toward the crease. Then fold in half again, completely enclosing your exposed edge. {You may have done this trick in the past to make purse handles.} Topstich around all edges. Don’t worry about turning the two ends under. We are going to add Velcro to one end and tuck the other between the seams when we sew all the pieces together.

With a rotary cutter, cut your lining fabric into three sections, horizontally. You want these to be varying sizes. Mine were 3″ wide, 6″ wide and 9″ wide.

Sew the first two sections back together by adding a zipper. Then sew section one and two (now sewn together as one) with an additional zipper. Your lining fabric should now have three sections, with two zippers running across them horizontally.

Take the necklace pocket and turn under the top (11″) edge twice. Zigzag stitch across this edge. Fold the pocket in half lengthwise and crease with an iron. Center your first piece of Velcro 1″ below top edge. Sew around the edge of the Velcro, attaching it to the necklace pocket. Pin the necklace pocket to the bottom of your wrap, well beneath the second zipper. Pin your completed necklace flap above the pocket, lining up the Velcro so they match.

Now place and pin your canvas rectangle behind your lining fabric. Place and pin your ring holder between your first two sets of zippers. You can either use a hot glue gun to add velcro to the lining and the backing of your ring holder, or you can sew these on before sewing the canvas. Your choice.

Carefully sew a 1/2″ seam around the outer edge of the lining, sewing the canvas to the lining. Then sew a center divider (or two, like the photo above) to create compartments in your necklace pocket. Sew the pocket flap down. Then sew as close as possible to the top of each of the zippers to create actual pockets between the lining and the canvas.

Once these are completed, place your backing fabric and your completed lining right sides together. Place 1″ of coordinating elastic, turned in a loop, sandwiched between these. This will be used as your button closure. Stitch a 1/4″ around all edges, making sure to leave a 3″ gap to turn work right side out. I like to backtack over the elastic to make sure it is sewn firmly.

Turn right side out. Press. Turn under remaining 3″ hole and sew seam shut. Press again. Fold into thirds. Find appropriate placing for button and sew on by hand. Fill with bangles and bobbles and enjoy!

I wish for “green” gifts.
Cloth napkins anyone? How easy are these to put together! Just grab any heavy-weight fabric, such as decor, and cut rectangles of the size of your liking. Double fold the hem and stitch away, or single fold the hem and zigzag/serge stitch along the edge. Bundle with a pretty ribbon and voila — and end to the purchasing of paper napkins.

When I received a set of fabulous cloth napkins from Meg this year, I knew what I was going to do with that stack of toile fabric that had been gathering dust in my studio. Three hours later, I’ve got six more gifts wrapped and under the tree.
{Technically, my tree is fake and 2 feet tall, also a nod to the green movement. So, they are on the mantel.}

How are you being green this holiday season?
~K

P.S. Anyone in Phoenix know where I can buy fresh cranberries? I’d even take frozen over the canned/jelled variety. They are the last remaining ingredient on my Christmas dinner menu and I am kicking myself for not picking up a couple bags two weeks ago when I saw them at the market. You find them and I’ll trade you baked goods of your choice!
*UPDATE* I found them! Thank you Tambra and Erin!

Need an easy, soft and sweet baby shower gift? Take 1 yard of fleece, 1 yard of your favorite quilter’s cotton and 1 yard of your favorite ribbons. Pin the ribbon in the seam, sew the edges together, and voila! A cuddly gift, perfect for celebrating babies born this time of year — when we all want to stay under the blankets a bit longer.

~k

With baby shower invites in hand, purchase packages of onesies. These can be pre-printed onesies on clearance (ahem), or good old Gerber onesies.

Print your favorite image on your laser printer on transfer canvas. Trim, seal color with a hot iron, prep onesie with a bit of T-shirt stabilizer.

Pin image over stabilizer on onesie. Carefully stitch around image with a new, brilliantly sharp needle.

Press again. Find coordinating ribbon. Tie and gift.

Voila — African children’s wear and a creative, inexpensive shower gift idea.

Many of you know Junie Moon; she is that super positive, upbeat, incredibly kind sewer who posts amazing photos in her flickr account, but doesn’t yet blog. Well, she’s come up with a great summer sewing tutorial that must be shared. Thankfully, I’m the lucky duck who gets to spread the word.

Car Seatbelt Sleeve Tutorial, ala June:

The seatbelts in my car rub and irritate my neck. Since an old set I purchased wore out, I decided to make a new set myself instead of buying them. You don’t need much material for the seatbelt sleeves. I used leftover soft flannel from another project and bought car header liner at Jo-Ann’s Fabrics (in the home deco section near the vinyl fabric bolts). Here are the instructions and illustrations for you to make some for yourself. It really is easy.
The instructions are for one seatbelt sleeve. If you want to make 2 or more, then you’ll need to plan accordingly.
Step 1: Cut out fabric pieces as follows:
• Exterior fabric: cut 2 9½-inch squares
• Heading liner: cut 1 9½-inch square
• Velcro: cut 8½-inches of ¾-inch wide Velcro

Step 2: Layer fabric pieces and heading liner as follows—one piece exterior fabric right-side up (facing you), one piece exterior fabric wrong-side up, and the heading liner material (it doesn’t matter which way this is facing). Pin in place and be sure to catch all 3 layers.

Step 3: Leaving a 3-inch opening in the middle of one side of the fabric sandwich for turning right-side out later, sew all 4 sides with a ½” seam.

Step 4: Trim all 4 corners by cutting on the diagonal, being careful not to cut through stitches. Then trim the stitched seams on 3 sides (not opening side) to approximately 1/8”.

Next, move the seam of the exterior fabric on the 4th side over a bit and trim the header lining to 1/8” to cut down on bulk.

Step 5: Turn right-side out so that the heading liner is in the middle and both exterior fabrics are on the outside. Turn the 3-inch opening inside by ½” and pin in place.

Step 6: Stitch ¼” inch around all 4 sides (which closes the 3’-inch opening, too).

Step 7: On left side of seatbelt sleeve, pin the rough (male) part of the Velcro along the edge. Stitch the Velcro around all 4 sides.

Step 8: Turn project over so that the Velcro you just installed is on the right but facing down on your table. Measure over 2½” from the left edge of the side now facing you and mark down the left side of the sleeve.

Place the right edge of your soft fuzzy Velcro side (female side) along your 2½” mark and pin in place. Stitch the Velcro around all 4 sides.

Step 9: You are done and can install in your car by folding it around your seatbelt. Make more for all your passenger seatbelts, if you wish.
Car Seatbelt Sleeve Tutorial written and executed by June Scroggin, 2007
Photos © by Dub Scroggin, 2007