Offering to the Travel Saint

July 21st, 2008
Voila -- African wall hanging

What to give a man who has everything? Well, if he is your African Travel Saint, how about a wall hanging? My sweet friend has several homes that are decorated with items gathered from his 30 trips to Africa over the years. I figured a wall hanging celebrating his favorite continent was in order.

African wall hanging -- back

It took a while to put this together, but I am pleased. I needed a refresher on binding, but thankfully Quilting 101 is on my bookshelf. I’m sending this off to Spence later this week with a Blurb book I made of photos celebrating our trip. I think he’ll dig it. Regardless, it was challenging and fun to create.

Maybe I need one of these too...

Maybe I need one of these…

~K

 

Jet Lag Go Away

July 14th, 2008

So, I’m thinking this headache I’ve had behind my eyes for the last five days is more than just jet lag. I’ve spent more time during the last week under the covers pinching my eyes shut and praying for relief than I have in years. And I’m pretty sure that time I had the flu. This is just this incredibly annoying pain that refuses to leave, regardless of the copious amounts of aspirin I’ve been inhaling.
Could be the change in weather (official outlook in Phoenix: RIDICULOUSLY HOT). Could be I’ve finally pried myself free of the caffeine demons that have kept me hostage for years (haven’t had any in 8 days, but who’s counting?) Could be Africa trying to tell me to get my butt back home. She misses me. I’m thinking its the latter. Regardless, this is about as whiny as I get and I’m hot. HOT! And my head hurts. And I am really missing being in Africa. (And am trying not to be too worried that maybe one of those stupid tsetse fly bites I got from the elephant safari could mean sleeping sickness. This would explain the headaches.)
Last photos of the adventure:

Africa 2008 781

Check out the toy car this kid fashioned out of trash. Tell me these kids couldn’t kick your student of the month’s butt in ingenuity? Yeah. Pretty sure they could kick my butt too.

Africa 2008 785

Seriously awesome.

Africa 2008 778

Who needs a JoAnn’s for supplies? Not these two village tailors. They put whatever they’ve got to great use, including these sewing machine relics.

Africa 2008 779

And they are pumped by foot.

Africa 2008 754

Gratuitous pretty kid photo. How beautiful are these girls? Stunning!

Africa 2008 749

These guys too!

Africa 2008 708

Thanks again for cheering me along through this adventure. Tomorrow I resume my domestic blogging duties that have been seriously neglected for the last two months. In the meantime, I’ve got a date with some Excedrin and a big bottle of ice water.

Cheers,
K

 

Mozambique: The Work

July 13th, 2008

When I’m on the ground working at one of our project sites, I spend most of my day observing. I walk with our public health workers through the villages, watching how they interact with families, seeing what their communities look like, scrutinizing the children and trying to tell if they are getting enough to eat, if there are mosquito nets hung in their huts, if there are pit latrines and clean wells available in the area. I take a lot of photographs and notes and try to come up with a plan to make our health projects more effective. A bit of what I saw in Beira — and I’ll warn you, some of these are disturbing:

Africa 2008 579

This is a typical home in a village near Beira.

Africa 2008 583

This is an improved method of hygiene that has been introduced. If your dishes air dry off the ground, they’ll stay cleaner and animals and children won’t be able to touch them either. (Obviously these still need to be washed.)

Africa 2008 582

A health promoter interviews a family in Msena — a local language.

Africa 2008 584

This family cultivates rice in one of the many flood plains nearby. They dry the rice on plastic sacks and then grind it with a giant mortar and pestle. They then take this ground material and put it in a large flat basket and wait for a slight breeze. When the breese is just right, they bounce the ground rice in the basket and the husk — which they’ve separated from the rice with the mortar — blows away in the wind leaving the rice ready for cooking. This process takes days for very little in terms of calories or vitamins gained. In other words, this isn’t Uncle Ben’s.

Africa 2008 619

Speaking of vitamins, there is a malnutrition issue in many of these communities with babies. Babies who can’t breastfeed — because the mother died in birth, her milk didn’t come in, she’s HIV-positive and doesn’t want to feed the baby her milk, or the baby is lactose intolerant and can’t keep the milk down — die quickly. There is Plumpynut available for those who bring their children to the malnutrition feeding centers. This is a healthy baby being weighed.

Africa 2008 616
Africa 2008 614

In constrast, this is the one-year-old I described earlier. She was later taken to the central hospital and put on a feeding tube. She weighed 5.5kg at 14 months.

Africa 2008 609

Her brother, who I carried to the clinic that day, was also malnourished and was cared for at the hospital. A more urgent issues was matakenyas — a worm that had invested his sweet little feet.

Africa 2008 607
Africa 2008 724

I heard the little girl in this photo crying before I saw her. Her mother is resting on the reed mat under the blankets in the far right side of the yard. She was 18 and had been sick since February.

Africa 2008 726

Her little girl sat in the dirt, listening to her mother moan. I can’t imagine she was older than a year. She cried when we appeared, but seemed to otherwise be entertaining herself.

Africa 2008 731

One week later when we returned to the community, the mother had died. I am not certain what will happen to this adorable little girl. With any luck, she’ll be taken to an orphanage where she’ll be fed and eventually sent to school. There was an HIV clinic offering free testing and treatment within a 15-minute walk of this village. I would guess stigma kept this woman initially from seeking care and handcuffed her family from doing anything after she was unable to do so for herself. If we can change one thing in southern Africa, may it be HIV-testing and treatment stigma. With treatment, people can live 20-25 years longer. It isn’t a cure, but it would have been a chance for this mother to see her little girl through childhood.

Africa 2008 661

These beautiful women are some of the Mozambican saints who work and care for such children at orphanages. The work is thankless, tiring and never-ending. Yet, they do so with a smile that I have to believe only comes from a spirit fueled by God. They give me hope for the future of Mozambique.

Nothing subtle about this prevention message

That and the exceedingly obvious prevention messages that are becoming part of the culture. This condom machine provides customers at a cafe in central Beira more than just decaf or full-jolt.

~K

 

Joy Shines Through

July 11th, 2008

The children of Mozambique are some of the sweetest I’ve encountered. I had so much fun taking their photographs and getting to know them. I spent much of my time with these sweet wee ones — jumping rope, teaching health lessons, playing games. A few of my new friends:

Mozambican children
Mozambican children
Mozambican children
Mozambican children
Mozambican children
Elio rocks out
Mozambican children
Mozambican children
Mozambican children
Mozambican children
Mozambican children
Mozambican children
Mozambican children
Mozambican children

I think this one gets her chubby cheeks from me, don’t you?
~K

 

Malawi Roundup

July 10th, 2008

A couple more of my favorite photos from Malawi before I move on to Mozambique:

Mount Mulanje

Mount Mulanje — apparently there is a porter race that goes up the face of this giant and down the other side. Amazing!

African transport

A truck that looks like it might just die on the spot from being overloaded: a common sight on roads in southern Africa. The only thing missing from this scene is a goat or a bunch of chickens tied to the top of the heap.

Pretty Malawian Patio

Pretty patio in Malawi. I love the simplicity of the furniture and colors. I want my patio to look like this!

Jack fruit

Jack fruit. I’m not sure what these taste like, unfortunately. But I can tell you their seeds mold within days. You take a walk around these trees and there are hundreds of furry little seeds at your feet growing like petri dishes.

Grilled fish, head and all

I did, however, get a chance to eat this baby. And a few others. I love grilled fish with lime.

Lujeri Clinic

The Lujeri Tea Estate has a pretty remarkable health care system for their employees. They have 60 births a week at their five clinics. I think this must be one of the highest fertility rates in the world. I was impressed with the cleanliness and access to service they provide their workers. (It’s win-win. Healthy workers = more tea.)

Showering in Africa

An African shower. Just add hot water to bucket.

African breakfast tray

African breakfast. Mosquito repellent, tea and biscuits (cookies).

Cow camp digs

African lodging. This is the home my friends Ken and Debby built. It is so pretty inside and the thatch roof keep the bush babies away.

Mozambique manana, amigos!

~K

 

Hungry Hungry Hippos

July 10th, 2008

The view from a boat tour of the Shire River in Malawi:

A view from the Shire River
A view from the Shire River
A view from the Shire River
A view from the Shire River
A view from the Shire River
A view from the Shire River
A view from the Shire River
A view from the Shire River
A view from the Shire River
A view from the Shire River
A view from the Shire River
A view from the Shire River
A view from the Shire River
A view from the Shire River

Hippo are the most frightening animal I’ve ever been near. They kill more people than any other animal in Africa and their sheer size is unbelievable. We were close enough to hear them grunt, see the detail of their wrinkled brow, watch them swim, listen to their ears splatter in the water. Hippo don’t really swim. I learned from our guide that they run along the river bottom. Their tails act as a propeller. Pretty cool construction, huh? God is great.

~K

 

Let’s Go on Safari: Liwonde National Park

July 9th, 2008

Have you ever wanted to go on a photo safari in Africa? Me too. Last summer I was lucky enough to visit Gorongoza National Park in Mozambique. However their civil war decimated the animal population and we saw little other than water buck and warthog. (They are beautiful in their own right but not necessarily safari-worthy on their own merit.)
Liwonde National Park in Malawi, on the other hand, has a ton of animals. So many elephant, in fact, they were capturing some of the herd and taking them to another park while we were there. The staff and grounds are pretty fantastic too. The safari went something like this:

Sunrise in Luwonde

Sunrise as we set off toward the park.

Arrival at Luwonde

The entrance, with its traditional African architecture.

Rules smules

Rules. So many rules for such a big place…

Huh. Yet they lead paid hikes?

I remembered this sign the next morning when we started off on foot for our photo tour that the park officials coordinated, of course.

The Safari Tent

Sleeping quarters for two.

Digs at Luwonde

Pretty swanky, eh? This place was so clean and comfortable. I loved these tents.

What are those on the flood plain?

What are those black things on the flood plain? Huh. Let’s get closer.

Sneaking up on me?

WOW! Where did you come from, Gorgeous?

Stupid Water Buck

Water Buck. Oy vey. I’ve seen enough of you. Scram! I’m trying to see your pachyderm friends.

Baby Monkey Hitching a Ride

You too Mama and Baby Baboon. Sure you are cute, but seriously. Did you see that elephant?

Time for some chow

Yeah. That one. Wow. You, Mrs. Elephant, are incredible.

Morning walk on the savannah

You’d be smiling like a goof ball too.

~K

 

Take a Hike: Mulanje Mountain Reserve

July 8th, 2008
Mulanje Mountain Reserve, Malawi

Want to take a break from whatever you are doing? How about a 10 minute escape to the jungle for a heart-pounding adventure? You are breathing some of the cleanest air on earth. A cool breeze and light mist keep you perfectly chilled while climbing the rolling path. Vervet monkeys jump above in the thick jungle canopy; their boisterous and happy cries fall downward on spellbound interlopers.
If fairies exist, we just found their Nirvana.

Mulanje Mountain Reserve, Malawi
Mulanje Mountain Reserve, Malawi
Mulanje Mountain Reserve, Malawi
Mulanje Mountain Reserve, Malawi
Mulanje Mountain Reserve, Malawi
Mulanje Mountain Reserve, Malawi
Mulanje Mountain Reserve, Malawi
Mulanje Mountain Reserve, Malawi
Mulanje Mountain Reserve, Malawi
Mulanje Mountain Reserve, Malawi
Mulanje Mountain Reserve, Malawi

Feel better? Yeah. Me too. Same time tomorrow? I’ve got another expedition to share.
~K

 

Home, Sweet Home!

July 7th, 2008

It took 44 hours door-to-door, but I am happily back home. Although I’m already an Ambien into my evening, I couldn’t wait to see my photos and have uploaded a couple from Malawi.
Thank you again for all of the wonderful and encouraging comments you’d left about my travels this summer. I am grateful for your support. I plan to post lots of photos to share all the great colors and details.

~K

Tea

The Lujeri Tea Estate where I stayed in Mulanji, Malawi.

The Guest House at the Lujeri Tea Estate

The guest house sleeps 8 and costs just $160 per night, including staff.

One of the many cloudy peaks in the Mulanji Range

The estate is surrounded by the Mulanji peaks, many of which are hidden behind clouds and are covered in thick, green luxurious jungle.

Tea bins

The estate sends tea around the world after it is sold weekly at the auctions in Blantyre. These buildings hold tea during the processing.

Hydrangeas as far as the eye can see -- my fave!

The land is lush and the gardens at the estate are fantastic.

Porter for the mountain

There are 10,000 workers who pick the tea and live near the estate. Precious is a picker. He is also a porter for those who want to climb Mount Mulanji.

Two sweet girls on the tea estate

There are 60 births each week at the estate’s 5 health clinics. I have to guess Malawi has one of the highest birth rates in the world. These sweet girls were selling donuts and were very timid to have their photo taken.

African checkers

Boys play an afternoon game of checkers.

African checkers, pieces

African checkers, actually.

Winston works under a gum tree

Winston sat under a gum tree working on his carved chests. The carvers in Malawi are superb. Their craftsmanship is amazing.

Winston, the carver
Some of Winson's carved wares

Some of the many things Winston and other sell to tourists. The rainforest keeps the carvers in supply of many types of wood.

Lunch at Karao'mula Country Lodge

Shrimp and spicy rice with peri peri sauce — the perfect lunch at the Karao’mula Country Lodge in Mulanji.

 

Tudo Bom

July 4th, 2008

I’ve just returned from an afternoon walk through Manga, a community near Beira, Mozambique. I skipped out a bit early today from work so I could take an hour to wander. I wanted to make sure to do so alone so I could drink in every drop of village life at my own pace. I’ll soon be back on an airplane. This was a great chance to stretch my legs and fill my head with the sights, sounds and scents of my sweet Africa.
School children in colorful uniforms race around on the street, excited about the pending weekend. Vendors line up their tangerines, small bags of peanuts and cashews and stacks of easily bruised bananas. Bootlegged movies scream from makeshift movie theaters — a reed shack with heavy black plastic draped over the roof to provide darkness in the otherwise sunny day. I wonder how these entrepreneurs rigged the electricity, found a DVD player, were able to purchase movies?
A friend said this week that a book should be written on African ingenuity. There is no end to the creativity of these people. Children make elaborate toys from wire, recycled bottles and plastic bags. Women find new uses for the oddest things. Clothing is worn until it is thread bare and then is used for bandages or cleaning scraps. Bicycles are repaired time and time again; welders sit on the side of the road with parts hanging from avocado trees.
There is a simplicity and beauty to African life that one can’t help but appreciate. In Manga, you eat what you grow. If your children are lucky, they have uniforms and basic supplies to attend school for one of the three-hour sessions offered daily. You walk everywhere. You know your neighbors and you know that life is fleeting.
It is hard to explain why I feel so alive here, so connected to the people. When I lived in Cameroon, I was just 20 years old and so scared and culturally shocked. My first experience traveling to Mozambique wasn’t much better. Now, with several more stamps in my passport, I am sad to be leaving after spending a month wandering and working. My heart beats differently — it is as though I am more connected to God and have a clearer purpose. I simply love Africa. The people have so much to teach me. The land never ceases to leave me in awe. Mozambican women are absolutely incredible. I saw a 20-something mother yesterday who had a young baby on her back, wrapped in a bright capulana, a child at her feet, a swollen, pregnant belly leading her, and a shovel balanced perfectly on her head. When I looked at her in complete admiration, she smiled. Such responsibility and such happiness!
Tonight I’m celebrating the 4th of July with a group of Americans. We’re making pizza and there were rumors about Chinese fireworks found at the bendover market. We are ever more thankful for independence, celebrating our country in one that is new to democracy. We are also ever aware of the turmoil in nearby Harare, as Robert Mugabe continues the active distruction of Zimbabwe. The immigration riots in South Africa also have Mozambicans worried. Their democracy is a precious commodity on a continent where the majority of leaders are dictators. A reminder of their violent past blows in the wind; their national flag includes an AK47.
One of the favorite expressions here is “how is it?” Mozambicans ask me this regularly and I laugh. At first I responded, “I don’t know? How is it?” Soon enough I learned the right response was “tudo bom” — everything is groovy. Indeed, this 4th of July, tudo bom.

~K

 
© 2008. Africankelli.com